Thursday, December 17, 2015

Fatto A Mano - Handmade perfection in detail at DeeR Style

Antica Sartora Leonardi at DeeR Style

Look carefully at these photos. You will note the attention to detail that comes with a skilled crafts person sewing by hand. 
Lapel Roll. This is achieved by cutting a jacket with a substantial amount of width in the lower part of the lapel and the combination of hand padding and pressing. 

The small tear dropped lapel buttonhole is a signature of neapolitan tailoring as is the double pick stitching in the lapel and collar. 

The spalla camicia

In a french-faced jacket, the inside facing of the jacket is made from the same fabric as the rest of the garment. obviously this is more expensive because more fabric used. It does make for a more beautiful garment. 

Traditional Details are featured in this suit. Including a button fly with a double button inside waistband closure. 

Buttonholes are of course stitching by hand. 

The jacket is obviously handmade. The white basting thread is to hold the components of the jacket in place during the production of the jacket.
The finished suit jacket. 

Antica Sartoria Leonardi via Neapolitan Tailoring via Deer Style, Brisbane, Australia


Antica Sartoria Leonardi Suit, WIth deer house cutaway shirt and 10 Fold Tie from G. Inglese

Fine Southern Italian tailoring is now available in Australia. DeeR offers the authentic Neapolitan style "su misura" (bespoke).

Neapolitan tailoring known for its more soft and relaxed approach to tailoring is perfect for The Australian climate and lifestyle. The suit jackets feature, the infamous shirt shoulder ("Spalla Camicia"), generous lapels (classically proportioned), full hand stitched canvas in a semi structured light weight semi-lined construction.

I would like you to introduce you to our tailor, Leonardi Alfonso, who is the proprietor and head tailor of Antica Sartoria Leonardi based in Naples, Italy.

Sig Alfonso with Staff (Above)

Maestro Alfonoso fitting a client.

Signor Alfonso, previously worked at the big names in Italian Tailoring Kiton and Borrelli but decided to start up his own venture.

His signature style is three buttoned jacket, where the top button is placed on the lapel, so that the jacket wears like a two button. His jackets feature the generous take on boat-shaped barchetta chest pocket, this perfectly matches other proportions of the jacket. He also tailors the garments with the classic Neapolitan shoulder, which is generally unpadded, without sleeveroll and is slightly full at where the sleeve meets the sleevehead. This makes for an extremely comfortable jacket, and aesthetically also features the gentle hand tucked folds or grinza at the sleevehead.

The above style fits in perfectly with DeeRs own house style and sartorial philosophy. We believe that clothing should look and feel relaxed, comfortable, without looking sloppy. It should also be a little bit gutsy.

You can read more about Antica Sartoria Leornardi at an article written by The Bespoke Dudes.

Taking appointments for fittings now.