DeeR Style

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Turn it up on the inside

Hunt & Winterbotham have sent through a bunch book of Linings to complement their range of classic wool fabrics.

The following is taken from the introduction of the bunch book.

"One of the unique characteristics that sets a bespoke garment apart form an off-the peg alternative, is your choice of lining fabric. Inside the jacket or on the back of a waistcoat, it's a little secret between you and your tailor; an opportunity to add a striking flash of colour or a perfectly co-ordinated print."

The linings are all woven in Italy in either Rayon Curpo, Viscose or a Viscose/Acetate blend.

Monday, November 7, 2011

Spread-za-tura

I just received two shirts for a customer from Individulized and they are beautiful.

These shirts feature, the "artisan collar." The customer ordered shirts with the "como" collar, but he wanted to try something different. The artisan collar is a variation of an Italian spread collar much like the "como" collar but with longer collar points.

Many don't realise that the most important aspect of selecting the shirt is the collar and cuffs. In theory you would always wear your jacket, hiding everything but these two areas of the shirt.

The collar and cuffs are unfused to create a garment that provides the wearer with comfort in the areas of the shirt that receive the most wear. I think having a softer collar and cuff is one aspect of clothing that gives clothing that casual elegance which the team at DeeR try to impart to our customers.

Personally I don't like stiffness in clothing. I think if you wear stiff clothing you end up looking like a stiff or at least self aware.

I prefer the more casual approach. Fred Astaire was rumoured to have thrown his jackets and clothes up against a brick wall to push all the stiffness out of them. This is probably taking things to extremes so I try to try to impart this ideal in tailoring whether it is a softer shoulders or shirt collars or fabric.

The Italian's in their dress have mastered the art of "sprezzatura." Sprezzatura is translated as "non chalance" or the art of making something difficult look easy. This is the ideal, when done correctly. Some people think it means leaving a button on a sleeve undone or unbuckling a shoe but if thats all you did, then you become a caricature and then you might as well wear really tight jackets with tighter pants that have been hemmed at mid calf.

For me its about being comfortable in clothes because that means it makes me more comfortable in a variety of situations and out of that comes a certain type of attitude or charisma from the person wearing the clothing that transcends the clothes themselves.