Fatto A Mano - Handmade perfection in detail at DeeR Style

Antica Sartora Leonardi at DeeR Style

Look carefully at these photos. You will note the attention to detail that comes with a skilled crafts person sewing by hand. 

Lapel Roll. This is achieved by cutting a jacket with a substantial amount of width in the lower part of the lapel and the combination of hand padding and pressing. 

The small tear dropped lapel buttonhole is a signature of neapolitan tailoring as is the double pick stitching in the lapel and collar. 

The spalla camicia

In a french-faced jacket, the inside facing of the jacket is made from the same fabric as the rest of the garment. obviously this is more expensive because more fabric used. It does make for a more beautiful garment. 

Traditional Details are featured in this suit. Including a button fly with a double button inside waistband closure. 

Buttonholes are of course stitching by hand. 

The jacket is obviously handmade. The white basting thread is to hold the components of the jacket in place during the production of the jacket.

The finished suit jacket. 

Antica Sartoria Leonardi via Neapolitan Tailoring via Deer Style, Brisbane, Australia

MADE IN NAPOLI, ITALY

Antica Sartoria Leonardi Suit, WIth deer house cutaway shirt and 10 Fold Tie from G. Inglese

Fine Southern Italian tailoring is now available in Australia. DeeR offers the authentic Neapolitan style "su misura" (bespoke).

Neapolitan tailoring known for its more soft and relaxed approach to tailoring is perfect for The Australian climate and lifestyle. The suit jackets feature, the infamous shirt shoulder ("Spalla Camicia"), generous lapels (classically proportioned), full hand stitched canvas in a semi structured light weight semi-lined construction.

I would like you to introduce you to our tailor, Leonardi Alfonso, who is the proprietor and head tailor of Antica Sartoria Leonardi based in Naples, Italy.

Sig Alfonso with Staff (Above)

Maestro Alfonoso fitting a client.

Signor Alfonso, previously worked at the big names in Italian Tailoring Kiton and Borrelli but decided to start up his own venture.

His signature style is three buttoned jacket, where the top button is placed on the lapel, so that the jacket wears like a two button. His jackets feature the generous take on boat-shaped barchetta chest pocket, this perfectly matches other proportions of the jacket. He also tailors the garments with the classic Neapolitan shoulder, which is generally unpadded, without sleeveroll and is slightly full at where the sleeve meets the sleevehead. This makes for an extremely comfortable jacket, and aesthetically also features the gentle hand tucked folds or grinza at the sleevehead.

The above style fits in perfectly with DeeRs own house style and sartorial philosophy. We believe that clothing should look and feel relaxed, comfortable, without looking sloppy. It should also be a little bit gutsy.

You can read more about Antica Sartoria Leornardi at an article written by The Bespoke Dudes.

Taking appointments for fittings now.

Holland & Sherry Fabric Available at DeeR, Brisbane, Australia

At DeeR we select nothing but the best for our fabrics this is obviously why Im pleased to use and recommend for the majority of my clients, Holland & Sherry.

Feel free to schedule an appointment to have a look at the amazing fabric from Holland & Sherry.

The Shawl Lapel Dinner Suit

The classic dinner suit is only available in shawl or peak lapel. It can be either single or double breasted. The only appropriate neckwear to pair with such an ensemble is a bow tie. Usually solid black, in satin, wool or knitted. However a bow with subtle white dots or similar pattern on a background might be okay in certain circles.

Cotton Suits - Available for Summer

SUMMER IS HERE

Airforce Blue Cotton Suit with Pinpoint Oxford Cotton Shirt

http://sartoriadeerstyle.com

Buying Suits in Brisbane

There are several places you can go in Brisbane for a good suit.

You could go to your traditional menswear store, which unfortunately these days are few a far between, or department store, where you'll be lucky to encounter anyone to sell you a suit...

....Or you can go to a tailor.

The benefits of going to a tailor are:

• You get measured and receive advice from someone who understands clothing, what flatters your form and someone that is passionate about the craft.
• A garment that fits and is designed to fit the proportions of your body and details that you want and not the whims of the designer.
• Choice of the details you want for the suit. This includes:  the number of buttons, vents, pocketing,  lapel widths, and other design features.
• Personal features such as monograming and lining selection.
• Quality Fabric and Construction. Pure wool, canvas chest pieces, hand stitching.

Schedule your appointment at:

http://sartoriadeerstyle.com

Affordable Custom Made Suits in Brisbane and Australia

DeeR is pleased to now offer a new range of competitively priced suiting aimed at graduates entering work force or those who just want quality and a custom fit at ready to wear prices.

You can chose a well-edited selection of classic fabrics of Pure 120 and 140 Wools, Linens and Cottons.

Add caption

The prices are likely to be the best in Brisbane. Customers can chose construction and style options and of course preference to create a unique garment.

Visit Sartoria DeeR Style to book an appointment

Tailor Made Full Canvas Suits in Brisbane

Brisbane now has DeeR style to add to the growing range of fashion and specialist clothing stores in this city.

We work with the best tailors around the world to bring quality within reach.

Our suits are made from the highest quality materials and cloth fabrics. Chose from a range of some of the best fabrics in the world, Holland & Sherry, J & J Minnis, Huddersfield, Dormeuil, and Drapers.

Varying options are available to customise your suit from vents, lapel widths, pocket, lining combinations and construction options, from machine made half canvas to fully handmade bespoke.

To book an appointment please email or visit out website.

Handmade boutonniere

Natural Horn Buttons, and working surgeon cuffs, fully hand stitched and finished.

New Deerstyle website www.sartoriadeerstyle.com

Deer Style Brisbane has a new website.

http://www.sartoriadeerstyle.com

One of my favourites: Holland & Sherry Crispaire

Above, is a recent suit commission for one of my customers. I particularly like the color of the suit which is Navy Blue. I've noticed lately theres been a resurgence in suits made up in the color blue. This is good news as I was getting bored with the extra attention that grey was getting, particularly in light of that popular book that all the women seemed to be obsessed with.

The Fabric is a pure wool by Holland & Sherry, from their Crispaire bunch book. This is a fabric that is suitable all year round, particularly in the warmer climates of a place like Australia. The fabric drapes nicely and is has a nice open weave which lets the air in. 

You can see more of these fabrics at the following Tumblr Page.

http://deerstyle.tumblr.com/post/101415829910/holland-sherry-swatch-book-crispaire

http://deerstyle.tumblr.com/post/79749437826/another-crispaire-suit-one-of-my-favourites-from

THE MAN IN THE GREY FLANNEL SUIT

The Man in The Grey Flannel Suit.
Gregory Peck starred in the movie about the American man who searches for purpose in a business dominated world.
The grey flannel suit used to be the unofficial business uniform that characterised the conservative 1950s.

It is unfortunate that the peacock revolution came along and destroyed those good American Values.

Its time to get back to the roots of classic conservatism.

Grey sounds dull on its own. But paired with a crisp white shirt and black tie, you can transcend the dull.

DeeR now on TUMBLR

DeeR is now also blogging on Tumblr.

We will not abandon blogspot.com

http://www.deerstyle.tumblr.com

Handwork - Suits

At DeeR you have option of highest quality machine made garment or a hand made garment.

You do pay a slight premium over machine made but you are paying for the craft that goes into making such a garment.

Each stitch is unique, sewn by hand, not something produced by a computer programmed machine.

Buttonhole stitched by hand.

Underside of the lapel. Stitched/Padded by Hand

Closeup of buttonhole

G. Inglese - Button Down

The white linen button down shirt. Perfect for days when the temperature climbs.

The collar roll is just superb.

G. Inglese produce several button down collars. This collar is the Anacapri.

Blue & Orange

Tie: Charles Alexander, Handmade in England.

Cloth: Cambridge by Hunt & Winterbotham (Huddersfield fine worsteds). Woven in Italy.

Shirt: G. Inglese

Trousers

Button Fly. Split Curtained Waist band, hand stitched seams.

Holland & Sherry Crispaire Fabric.

Woven Flower

Man-made flower, boutonniere. Made by hand.

TOBACCO SUEDE

Turn it up on the inside

Hunt & Winterbotham have sent through a bunch book of Linings to complement their range of classic wool fabrics. 

The following is taken from the introduction of the bunch book.

"One of the unique characteristics that sets a bespoke garment apart form an off-the peg alternative, is your choice of lining fabric. Inside the jacket or on the back of a waistcoat, it's a little secret between you and your tailor; an opportunity to add a striking flash of colour or a perfectly co-ordinated print."

The linings are all woven in Italy in either Rayon Curpo, Viscose or a Viscose/Acetate blend.

Spread-za-tura

I just received two shirts for a customer from Individulized and they are beautiful.

These shirts feature, the "artisan collar." The customer ordered shirts with the "como" collar, but he wanted to try something different. The artisan collar is a variation of an Italian spread collar much like the "como" collar but with longer collar points.

Many don't realise that the most important aspect of selecting the shirt is the collar and cuffs. In theory you would always wear your jacket, hiding everything but these two areas of the shirt.

The collar and cuffs are unfused to create a garment that provides the wearer with comfort in the areas of the shirt that receive the most wear.  I think having a softer collar and cuff is one aspect of clothing that gives clothing that casual elegance which the team at DeeR try to impart to our customers.

Personally I don't like stiffness in clothing. I think if you wear stiff clothing you end up looking like a stiff or at least self aware.

I prefer the more casual approach. Fred Astaire was rumoured to have thrown his jackets and clothes up against a brick wall to push all the stiffness out of them. This is probably taking things to extremes so I try to try to impart this ideal in tailoring whether it is a softer shoulders or shirt collars or fabric.

The Italian's in their dress have mastered the art of "sprezzatura." Sprezzatura is translated as "non chalance" or the art of making something difficult look easy. This is the ideal, when done correctly.  Some people think it means leaving a button on a sleeve undone or unbuckling a shoe but if thats all you did, then you become a caricature and then you might as well wear really tight jackets with tighter pants that have been hemmed at mid calf.

For me its about being comfortable in clothes because that means it makes me more comfortable in a variety of situations and out of that comes a certain type of attitude or charisma from the person wearing the clothing that transcends the clothes themselves.

Blue Gingham Check. 100% 2 Ply Cotton. Signature. 2 Button Rounded Cuff. French Front. Made in USA.

Light Blue End on End. 100% 2 Ply Cotton. Signature, 2 Button Rounded Cuff. French Front. Made in USA.